Olá 👋

We’re back after our short pause, with a brand new issue, new design and layout.

This one is full of history, mystery, and a few surprises.

The village of Afife takes centre stage.

From ancient petroglyphs and castro ruins to stories whispered at dusk, the past here feels close enough to touch.

Feature: Afife — where stone, sea, and legends meet

Who’s Who: Pedro Homem de Mello, the poet of Cabanas

Cultural Gem: Convento de Cabanas

Hidden Gem: Pouco de Azul

Legend: The women who saved Afife

Gastronomy: Traditional pick + new discovery Events, markets, wellness, and more

“Em outubro, o vinho é mosto, o fruto é colhido e o fogo posto.”

(In October, the wine is must, the fruit is harvested, and the fire is lit.)

Afife sits where mountain, river, and sea meet.

At dusk, the light softens the valley, wood smoke mingles with the mist, and the stones seem to breathe. Every rock is a memory, every carved mark a voice from long before maps were drawn.

The oldest voices are the petroglyphs, spirals, labyrinths, and solar-headed figures cut into living rock.

Cut by shamanic hands long before written history, they are visual traces of trance, ritual, and cosmology.

The castros of northern Portugal were more than stone ramparts.

They were communities alive with ritual.

Pedro Homem de Mello​

This week’s Who’s Who takes us to Afife, the adopted home of Pedro Homem de Mello (1904–1984) — poet, folklorist, professor, and one of Portugal’s great lyrical voices.

Mello lived for years at the Convento de Cabanas, a historic retreat on the Afife river.

The sea, the Serra d’Arga, and village life shaped his poetry. Known locally as the “Poet of Cabanas,” he wrote verses that carried both passion and rebellion, celebrating Minho’s landscapes and traditions.

Many of his poems became immortal through Amália Rodrigues. Songs like “Povo que lavas no rio,” “A minha terra é Viana,” and “Havemos de ir a Viana” carried the essence of Minho far beyond its borders, turning his words into anthems of belonging.

Listen to Amália Rodrigues sing "A Minha Terra é Viana," one of the most beautiful poems about Viana, written by Pedro Homem de Mello.

Mello was also a folklorist. In works such as Danças de Portugal, he documented dances, songs, and rituals, preserving the cultural heritage of Minho.

He championed groups like the Rancho de Afife, ensuring local traditions were remembered, performed, and passed on.

His legacy remains alive in Afife festivals and at the Casino , where dance, music, and poetry still gather in his name.

Exploring just got easier — and greener. Viana do Castelo has launched new bus routes with modern, comfortable vehicles and an updated interactive map.

The dashboard shows which lines go where — perfect for planning a day out or discovering new corners of the city.

Tip: The ne VdC app also lists schedules and routes (availability may vary by app store). More buses, fewer cars, and a smoother way to see the best of Viana..

The conference  brings together 70 authors from 25 countries and world-renowned speakers.

Four keynote speakers from international universities, including Aristotle University of Thessaloniki (Greece) and the University of Toronto (Canada).

An exciting initiative that places the Polytechnic of Viana do Castelo at the center of an international discussion on art, performance, and memory.

Give new life to what you no longer use… and maybe find a new treasure in return.

No money, no waste — just community.

While the swap happens, join short workshops on:

Saturday, Oct 25 | 14:00–17:00

Nowhere Desk, Caminho do Barral, Ázere

Send the details to [email protected] and we will feature you in the next issue.

Afife’s Convento de São João de Cabanas carries a history as old as the hills.

Founded in the 6th century by Saint Martin of Dume, it was destroyed during the Moorish invasions, then rebuilt by the Galician nobleman Lopo Munhoz.

Later it became a Benedictine monastery dedicated to Saint John, its name Cabanas recalling the huts where the first monks once lived.

The 18th-century reconstructions gave us much of what stands today: stone cloisters where prayer, agriculture, and culture shaped Afife and the Minho.

In 1897 the convent passed to the family of poet Pedro Homem de Mello, who lived and wrote here, turning Cabanas into a cradle of poetry and folklore.

Today, restored and serene, it remains a place where stone, silence, and memory linger.

Pilgrims walking the Caminho de Santiago often stop here to rest and eat, adding new footsteps to an ancient story.

Have you ever walked past Cabanas on the Camino or visited Afife yourself?

Hit reply and share your story — we’d love to feature reader memories.

​Locals have long treated it as both playground and sanctuary. In summer, children splash at the edges while walkers rest their feet in the icy water after a hike through the Serra d’Arga paths.

In quieter moments, the stillness of the pool mirrors the sky, a reminder of nature’s ability to create simple wonders that need no ornament.

The Minho is rich with folklore where women stand at the center, feiticeiras, bruxas, meigas, moras, and enchanted maidens.

These tales carry themes of mystery, resilience, and transformation, echoing through the region’s mythology.

The river below holds its own story.

Legend tells of Celtic women, or the women of the Castros, part sorceress, part warrior, who cut their hair, braided it with intention and cast it into the river.

The strands floated like spells, disguising the women’s presence.

When Roman legions pressed inland they stooped to drink from the river and were choked by the tangles.

Afife’s name is said to come from the Roman words Aff-hifas… “hair soup.”

Today Afife carries both reverence for the past and the rhythm of everyday life.

The legends of Afife are thresholds…small doors into deeper time

• The Cividade de Âncora sits at 187 metres and overlooks routes to Galicia and the mineral springs of the mountains.

• The Castro settlement has concentric stone ramparts up to 1.5 metres thick and an exposed wall length of about 24 metres.

• The petroglyphs around Afife may predate the Castros by many centuries, tying the land to Late Bronze Age ritual traditions.

Restaurante Mariana

Nestled on Estrada Pedro Homem de Mello, Restaurante Mariana in Afife is a go-to for seafood lovers and those craving Portuguese tradition with a Mediterranean touch.

🟡Try the sea bass with seaweed, fresh green beans, and potato draws constant praise — one diner called it “the best robalo I’ve ever had.”

Clams, octopus dishes, and hearty soups of legumes are also standouts, while the leite-creme queimado is a must-try dessert.

The atmosphere is warm, the staff welcoming, and the décor simple but cozy. Prices are reasonable, portions generous.

Estr. Pedro Homem de Mello 42, Afife — perfect for a post-walk supper by the sea.

Tucked into the hillside village of Afife, Sr. Bacalhau serves Portuguese classics with care and a modern touch.

Their house specialties include bacalhau à Sr. Bacalhau, grilled octopus, and seasonal seafood, each prepared with the freshness Minho cuisine is known for.

The dining room is cozy, but the highlight is the terrace — where, on a clear evening, you can watch the sun set over the ocean in the distance.

It’s a place that blends village warmth with a hint of sea horizon magic.

Caminho da Gateira 82, Afife

🔔Write to us at [email protected]

The sun holds steady over the Minho coast but at night the sea mist beckons in the autumn.

Expect golden days and cool, gentle evenings — highs around 25 °C, dipping to 15 °C at night.

Sunday and Monday will be bright and clear, perfect for slow walks or seaside lunches.

By midweek, soft clouds begin to gather, bringing hazier light and a hint of autumn’s hush…and still no rain.

Layers are your friend this week, mornings ask for a sweater, afternoons call for sunglasses.

🔔Reply to this email and attach your image at [email protected]

If you enjoyed this please forward it to a friend who loves Viana — or wishes they did.

Thanks for being part of this community.

Next week is going to be a spooky issue.

With 💛

From Viana.

This issue of From Viana is sponsored by DS Credito

​Luís Gomes, Mortgage Advisor​

Luís Gomes guides newcomers and locals through the mortgage process with clarity, honesty, and care.

Need mortgage guidance? You can contact him ​here​.